When one says "I adore Art Deco", what does it mean?
The classic era of Art Deco started in the early '20s and governed design for almost twenty years. It faded during WWII but when the late '50s raised the question about what could be a new serious decorative dominance of the decade, the Art Deco was revived (among many other styles), therefore many examples of the '60s craft might be identified as an Art Deco style jewellery. Some of them (e.g. Pierre Bex) using new materials and palettes developed incredible signature styles, inspired by the original era.
So, when we talk about eras and styles, we must, first of all, understand what we are looking for. One seeks an original era (or period) with its styles (and their cross-influences), materials, techniques, sizes, and problems too! Another would look for aesthetics, perhaps, with more progressive execution, and new approaches in colours and materials. This is a question of style, and styles tend to return, inspire the future, and be revived.
The classic era of Art Deco started in the early '20s and governed design for almost twenty years. It faded during WWII but when the late '50s raised the question about what could be a new serious decorative dominance of the decade, the Art Deco was revived (among many other styles), therefore many examples of the '60s craft might be identified as an Art Deco style jewellery. Some of them (e.g. Pierre Bex) using new materials and palettes developed incredible signature styles, inspired by the original era.
So, when we talk about eras and styles, we must, first of all, understand what we are looking for. One seeks an original era (or period) with its styles (and their cross-influences), materials, techniques, sizes, and problems too! Another would look for aesthetics, perhaps, with more progressive execution, and new approaches in colours and materials. This is a question of style, and styles tend to return, inspire the future, and be revived.
Polina Lyapustin
Curator of Chioschetto
From the Victorian Grand Period (1860-1885) throughout the century to the "lost" decade of revivals on the way to Modernist Jewellery in the 1960s.
Here's a quick guide to the major periods and styles in the centennial timeframe, that we explore and study (and restore ❤️) at Chioschetto.
Here's a quick guide to the major periods and styles in the centennial timeframe, that we explore and study (and restore ❤️) at Chioschetto.
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Victorian Romantic Period (1837-1860)
incl. influenced period of Queen Isabella II of Spain (1840-1860)
This period is the first of three named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837-1901 and was always dominant in every aspect of social life, including fashion in the UK and the rest of Europe.
The romantic period belongs to the young years of the Queen and is greatly inspired by the royal wedding and enforcement of the international position of the country.
We can find numerous flowers there, although they are ornamental, not naturalistic. Arabic and South-Eastern precious and semi-precious stones brought many colours in. Celtic influence is also very strong.
incl. influenced period of Queen Isabella II of Spain (1840-1860)
This period is the first of three named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837-1901 and was always dominant in every aspect of social life, including fashion in the UK and the rest of Europe.
The romantic period belongs to the young years of the Queen and is greatly inspired by the royal wedding and enforcement of the international position of the country.
We can find numerous flowers there, although they are ornamental, not naturalistic. Arabic and South-Eastern precious and semi-precious stones brought many colours in. Celtic influence is also very strong.
Victorian Grand Period (1860-1985)
incl. influenced period of Napoleon III (1850-1875)
When the Queen's husband Prince Albert passed away, Victoria entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewellery, featuring macabre motifs such as skulls, snakes, skeletons, and Egyptian revival symbols of the after-death world.
This period created some very important trends and changed the industry, marking the boom of the Jet industry in Whitby, and making every black substance twice more precious than ever before. Ebonite, Bog-wood, Jet, Onyx, and Black Enameled Metals reached their highest demand during these two+ decades.
Gold and silver are the main metals, while rubies are accompanied by lapis lazuli and turquoises on the top of preferences. And sure, there were pearls. Long lines of natural pearls and seed pearls and turqoises sprinkled on brooches and light up the memento mori symbols.
incl. influenced period of Napoleon III (1850-1875)
When the Queen's husband Prince Albert passed away, Victoria entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewellery, featuring macabre motifs such as skulls, snakes, skeletons, and Egyptian revival symbols of the after-death world.
This period created some very important trends and changed the industry, marking the boom of the Jet industry in Whitby, and making every black substance twice more precious than ever before. Ebonite, Bog-wood, Jet, Onyx, and Black Enameled Metals reached their highest demand during these two+ decades.
Gold and silver are the main metals, while rubies are accompanied by lapis lazuli and turquoises on the top of preferences. And sure, there were pearls. Long lines of natural pearls and seed pearls and turqoises sprinkled on brooches and light up the memento mori symbols.
Victorian Aesthetic Period (1885-1901)
incl. influenced periods of Napoleon III (1850-1875) in France
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, the Aesthetic Period burst into everyday life as if to recapture all the lost opportunities of the previous decades. Lighter and unpretentious motifs, numerous animals, insects, and plants shaped the new fashion.
Artisans came to power in design, protesting against the increased industrialization, in 1886 a group of artists formed the Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society.
The new Victorian women finally answered more to themselves than to the expectations of society and they quickly found their symbol in popular culture in the publications of the American comic artist Charles Dan Gibson. The “Gibson Girl” was independent, fun-loving, self-aware and self-assured.
Jewellery then had to be not only beautiful but comfortable too. Daytime jewellery became its own type.
incl. influenced periods of Napoleon III (1850-1875) in France
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, the Aesthetic Period burst into everyday life as if to recapture all the lost opportunities of the previous decades. Lighter and unpretentious motifs, numerous animals, insects, and plants shaped the new fashion.
Artisans came to power in design, protesting against the increased industrialization, in 1886 a group of artists formed the Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society.
The new Victorian women finally answered more to themselves than to the expectations of society and they quickly found their symbol in popular culture in the publications of the American comic artist Charles Dan Gibson. The “Gibson Girl” was independent, fun-loving, self-aware and self-assured.
Jewellery then had to be not only beautiful but comfortable too. Daytime jewellery became its own type.
Art Nouveau (1890-1914)
incl. the influence of Arts & Crafts and early post-WWI period in Mourning Jewellery
The Art Nouveau period began in Europe and was short-lived but had a great impact around the globe. This movement inherited a lot from the Victorian late influence and remained in place until 1914, aside from the Edwardian Royal style.
This mode of jewellery style was a revolt against the mass production of jewellery that was brought about by industrialization. Soft curves, fluid lines, and natural themes were the hallmarks of this style. Common motifs were the female nudes, butterflies, poppies, orchids, and dragonflies.
Hand-crafting techniques such as enameling became immensely popular during this period. Opal, agate, moonstone, and amber were among the most common gemstones used.
After WWI, Art Nouveau was slowly fading, but you could still find many signs of the style in the jewellery of the interwar period.
incl. the influence of Arts & Crafts and early post-WWI period in Mourning Jewellery
The Art Nouveau period began in Europe and was short-lived but had a great impact around the globe. This movement inherited a lot from the Victorian late influence and remained in place until 1914, aside from the Edwardian Royal style.
This mode of jewellery style was a revolt against the mass production of jewellery that was brought about by industrialization. Soft curves, fluid lines, and natural themes were the hallmarks of this style. Common motifs were the female nudes, butterflies, poppies, orchids, and dragonflies.
Hand-crafting techniques such as enameling became immensely popular during this period. Opal, agate, moonstone, and amber were among the most common gemstones used.
After WWI, Art Nouveau was slowly fading, but you could still find many signs of the style in the jewellery of the interwar period.
Edwardian period (1901-1914)
incl. Belle Epoque, which arose in the 1880s in France and shared many stylistic and technical principles
This style came into fashion within the same timeframe as Art Nouveau was in power.
Jewellery was turning into a significant part of the everyday life cultivated by this extremely wealthy upper class. As landed capital dwindled, trading capital multiplied. And Nouveau Riche people wanted their own new fancy jewellery.
Garlands and ribbons, laurel wreaths, bow knots, and lace were rendered with a new lightness thanks to the advances made in platinum fabrication. These shapes became symbols of both Belle Époque and Edwardian fashion.
This period was highly influenced by its main material — Platinum. It was lightweight and strong, so it was used to create airy, light, and highly detailed often symmetrical pieces. Diamonds made a great company to this shiny metal during this time, featured in intricate choker necklaces and lacy dangle earrings.
The changing necklines in women’s fashions left little room for brooches so the importance of necklaces increased.
incl. Belle Epoque, which arose in the 1880s in France and shared many stylistic and technical principles
This style came into fashion within the same timeframe as Art Nouveau was in power.
Jewellery was turning into a significant part of the everyday life cultivated by this extremely wealthy upper class. As landed capital dwindled, trading capital multiplied. And Nouveau Riche people wanted their own new fancy jewellery.
Garlands and ribbons, laurel wreaths, bow knots, and lace were rendered with a new lightness thanks to the advances made in platinum fabrication. These shapes became symbols of both Belle Époque and Edwardian fashion.
This period was highly influenced by its main material — Platinum. It was lightweight and strong, so it was used to create airy, light, and highly detailed often symmetrical pieces. Diamonds made a great company to this shiny metal during this time, featured in intricate choker necklaces and lacy dangle earrings.
The changing necklines in women’s fashions left little room for brooches so the importance of necklaces increased.
Art Deco (1920s-1940s)
incl. both transition styles from Edwardian and Art Nouveau styles
While the Art Nouveau movement was all about fluid lines and rounded edges, Art Deco which first appeared in France was focused on geometric shapes, clean lines, and symmetry. The large-scale brooches and necklaces were now replaced with more minimalist accessories. New jewellery is now created to accommodate a new — personal — style. Jewellery became an addition designed to accentuate each individual outfit, instead of an ornament intended to display one’s wealth.
The main colour of most jewellery was still the white of platinum and diamond, although single colour accents also appeared in sapphire, emerald, and ruby outbursts which have never gone out of style. Although, Art Deco inherited many visual aspects of the Edwardian style, this time the style presented not the reworked ideas of the past but reflected on the modern world which people had to rebuild after WWI.
incl. both transition styles from Edwardian and Art Nouveau styles
While the Art Nouveau movement was all about fluid lines and rounded edges, Art Deco which first appeared in France was focused on geometric shapes, clean lines, and symmetry. The large-scale brooches and necklaces were now replaced with more minimalist accessories. New jewellery is now created to accommodate a new — personal — style. Jewellery became an addition designed to accentuate each individual outfit, instead of an ornament intended to display one’s wealth.
The main colour of most jewellery was still the white of platinum and diamond, although single colour accents also appeared in sapphire, emerald, and ruby outbursts which have never gone out of style. Although, Art Deco inherited many visual aspects of the Edwardian style, this time the style presented not the reworked ideas of the past but reflected on the modern world which people had to rebuild after WWI.
Retro and Revivals (1940s-1960s)
celebrating life and peace and searching for a new signature style
The beginning of WWII inevitably slowed down the production of jewelry. Metals such as platinum and gold were now becoming tightly rationed due to the war effort. The women’s dress attire became more comfortable for their newfound working environment. This change busted the popularity of brooches to the stars. The shortage of precious stones led to the use of more semi-precious stones, such as citrine, amethyst, topaz, and aquamarines.
But when the war was over, what was needed was not so much a celebration as proof that everything would be okay again. Big and bold was the name of the game during the Retro period. This was the time of cocktail rings and statement necklaces. Styles inspired by the glamour and glitz of Hollywood were extremely popular. Diamonds and platinum, however, decreased in popularity during this time. Large gems of amethyst, citrine, and topaz set in gold were the new standard.
celebrating life and peace and searching for a new signature style
The beginning of WWII inevitably slowed down the production of jewelry. Metals such as platinum and gold were now becoming tightly rationed due to the war effort. The women’s dress attire became more comfortable for their newfound working environment. This change busted the popularity of brooches to the stars. The shortage of precious stones led to the use of more semi-precious stones, such as citrine, amethyst, topaz, and aquamarines.
But when the war was over, what was needed was not so much a celebration as proof that everything would be okay again. Big and bold was the name of the game during the Retro period. This was the time of cocktail rings and statement necklaces. Styles inspired by the glamour and glitz of Hollywood were extremely popular. Diamonds and platinum, however, decreased in popularity during this time. Large gems of amethyst, citrine, and topaz set in gold were the new standard.
Modernism (1950-1970s)
The jewellery styles of the fifties, and sixties were heavily influenced by the Modernist movement. Shapes and motifs inspired by science and space exploration appeared in jewellery. Animal designs became extremely detailed, and coloured stones grew in use and popularity. Many mid-century pieces were bold and bright, and drew the eye with textured metals and jagged lines. At the same time, the minimalism returns to the pedestal.
The jewellery styles of the fifties, and sixties were heavily influenced by the Modernist movement. Shapes and motifs inspired by science and space exploration appeared in jewellery. Animal designs became extremely detailed, and coloured stones grew in use and popularity. Many mid-century pieces were bold and bright, and drew the eye with textured metals and jagged lines. At the same time, the minimalism returns to the pedestal.
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J.G. Keulemans' illustrations for the 1871 album Exotic Birds, as well as fashion magazines of various years from 1890 to 1954, were used to design the site.
© All rights reserved by Polina Lyapustina. Use of information and images from the site is only possible with the permission of the owner.