Periods & Styles
· 1860–1880 · 1880–1901 · 1890–1914 · 1901–1915 · 1918–1939 · 1945–1965 ·
What does it mean, when one says "I adore Art Deco brooches?" Most people would probably address this passion in the 1930s. Others would rather refer to the geometric shapes. And all of them would be right but in different ways. The classic era of Art Deco started in the early '20s and governed design for some 30 years (although, still giving enough space to Art Nouveau and late Edwardian styles, when their eras were over) including the war period.
It faded in the Retro era in the '50s, suppressed (almost literally) by the weight of bold costume jewellery of the period, its huge stones, and bright colours. And when the '60s put the question about what could be a new serious decorative dominant of the decade, the Art Deco style returned, therefore many examples of the '60s (and early '70s) jewellery might be identified as an Art Deco style.
Some of them (like Rene Gouin or Pierre Bex) have an incredible signature style, inspired by the original era.
During the same years, many other styles were revived, and near the geometric shapes, you may easily find some exceptional Victorian-inspired objects.
Another one would look for an aesthetic, perhaps, with more progressive execution, and new approaches in colours and materials. This is a question of style, and styles tend to return and be revived.
It faded in the Retro era in the '50s, suppressed (almost literally) by the weight of bold costume jewellery of the period, its huge stones, and bright colours. And when the '60s put the question about what could be a new serious decorative dominant of the decade, the Art Deco style returned, therefore many examples of the '60s (and early '70s) jewellery might be identified as an Art Deco style.
Some of them (like Rene Gouin or Pierre Bex) have an incredible signature style, inspired by the original era.
During the same years, many other styles were revived, and near the geometric shapes, you may easily find some exceptional Victorian-inspired objects.
· · ·
So, when we speak about eras and styles, we must, first of all, understand what we are looking for. One seeks an original era (or period) with its styles (and their crossings), materials, techniques, sizes, and problems too!Another one would look for an aesthetic, perhaps, with more progressive execution, and new approaches in colours and materials. This is a question of style, and styles tend to return and be revived.
· · ·
In Chioschetto, I explore, study, and often restore the costume jewellery from the Victorian Grand Period (1860-1885) and all the way throughout the century to the lost decade of revivals on the way to Modernist Jewellery in the 1960s.
Polina Lyapustin
Curator of Chioschetto
Victorian (1837-1860) ↓
incl. influenced period Queen Isabella II of Spain (1840-1860)
This period is named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837-1901.
When her husband Prince Albert passed away, she entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewelry, often set with dark onyx and featuring macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons.
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, jewelry featuring lighter themes came into style. Flowers, animals, insects, and stars were some of the most used motifs.
When her husband Prince Albert passed away, she entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewelry, often set with dark onyx and featuring macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons.
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, jewelry featuring lighter themes came into style. Flowers, animals, insects, and stars were some of the most used motifs.
Victorian Grand Period (1860-1985) ↓
incl. influenced period of Napoleon III (1850-1875)
This period is named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837-1901.
When her husband Prince Albert passed away, she entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewelry, often set with dark onyx and featuring macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons.
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, jewelry featuring lighter themes came into style. Flowers, animals, insects, and stars were some of the most used motifs.
When her husband Prince Albert passed away, she entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewelry, often set with dark onyx and featuring macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons.
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, jewelry featuring lighter themes came into style. Flowers, animals, insects, and stars were some of the most used motifs.
Victorian Aesthetic Period (1885-1901) ↓
incl. influenced periods of Napoleon III (1850-1875) in France and Queen Isabella II of Spain (1840-1860)
This period is named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837-1901.
When her husband Prince Albert passed away, she entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewelry, often set with dark onyx and featuring macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons.
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, jewelry featuring lighter themes came into style. Flowers, animals, insects, and stars were some of the most used motifs.
When her husband Prince Albert passed away, she entered a period of deep mourning. This ushered in the popularity of mourning jewelry, often set with dark onyx and featuring macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons.
When the Queen’s mourning period came to an end, jewelry featuring lighter themes came into style. Flowers, animals, insects, and stars were some of the most used motifs.
Art Nouveau (1890-1914) ↓
incl. the early influence of Arts & Crafts and early post-WWI period in Mourning Jewellery
The Art Nouveau period began in Europe and was short-lived but had a great impact around the globe. This movement rose after the Victorian influence began, and remained in place until 1914. This mode of jewelry style was a revolt against the mass production of jewelry that was brought about by industrialization. Soft curves, fluid lines, and natural themes were the hallmarks of this style. Common motifs were the female nude, butterflies, poppies, orchids, and dragonflies.
Hand-crafting techniques such as enameling became immensely popular during this period. Opal, agate, moonstone, and amber were among the most common gemstones used.
Hand-crafting techniques such as enameling became immensely popular during this period. Opal, agate, moonstone, and amber were among the most common gemstones used.
Edwardian (1901-1915) ↓
without this line, it's just not nice at all
This style came into fashion after the Victorian Era but within the same timeframe as Art Nouveau began to influence fashion. This era was named for Edward VII, Queen Victoria’s son, who began his reign after her death in 1901. It was during this time that platinum began to appear in jewellery. Due to its light weight and strength, platinum could be used to create airy, light, and highly detailed pieces.
Diamonds also grew in popularity during this time, featured in intricate choker necklaces and lacy dangle earrings. This period also saw the invention of the Milgrain technique, which creates a “beaded” look on the edges of jewellery settings.
Diamonds also grew in popularity during this time, featured in intricate choker necklaces and lacy dangle earrings. This period also saw the invention of the Milgrain technique, which creates a “beaded” look on the edges of jewellery settings.
Art Deco (1920-1950) ↓
without this line, it's just not nice at all
While the Art Nouveau movement was all about fluid lines and rounded edges, Art Deco which first appeared in France was focused on geometric shapes, clean lines, and symmetry. The main color of most jewelry was the white of platinum and diamond, although single accent colors also appeared in sapphire, emerald, and ruby.
Retro and Revivals (1950s-1960s) ↓
without this line, it's just not nice at all
Big and bold was the name of the game during the Retro period. This was the time of cocktail rings and statement necklaces. Styles inspired by the glamour and glitz of Hollywood were extremely popular. Diamonds and platinum, however, decreased in popularity during this time. Large gems of amethyst, citrine, and topaz set in gold were the new standard.
Modernism (1950-1970s) ↓
without this line, it's just not nice at all
The jewelry styles of the forties, fifties, and sixties were heavily influenced by the Modernist movement. Shapes and motifs inspired by science and space exploration appeared in jewelry. Animal designs became extremely detailed, and colored stones grew in use and popularity. Many mid-century pieces were bold and bright, and drew the eye with textured metals and jagged lines.
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J.G. Keulemans' illustrations for the 1871 album Exotic Birds, as well as fashion magazines of various years from 1890 to 1954, were used to design the site.
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